Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Composting, LandscapExpert Style

The Compost Poem
(Sung to the tune of “The Worms Crawl In, the worms crawl out, the worms play pinochle on your snout . . .”)
 The green goes in, rhe brown does too;
This is something we all should do.
Just give it a spin. just give it a toss.
Show your garden waste who is boss. 
-by Lynn Anne, from Doug Green’s Blog

Did you know Crabapple recycles more than 2,000 cubic yards of green waste per year? 

Whether during routine service or specially scheduled renovations, Crabapple LandscapExperts often remove quantities of brush, clippings, leaves, fallen branches, spent mulch and weeds. Although this cleanup process makes clients’ properties orderly and neat in appearance, it also results in a large volume of green waste.

While other companies might haul this waste to a landfill, your LandscapExperts have put in place recycling program that demonstrates our commitment to the environment.

All landscape green waste (organic matter) is trucked back to Crabapple facilities where it is separated for size, shredded and ground, then screened. It is either used in the production of energy, or naturally composted to produce organic mulch and rich organic compost.

Afterward, this nutrient-filled organic mulch is recycled in landscapes across metro-Atlanta, conserving moisture, maintaining even soil temperatures, offering a natural alternative to chemical fertilizers, increasing beneficial micro-organisms that help to ward off plant diseases in the soil, and providing a unifying visual element in these landscapes. 

Further composting results in rich, black humus that is recycled during soil prep and enriches flower beds, added to Crabapple's  beautiful containers, window boxes and hanging baskets, or used to top dress areas planted with flower bulbs. This all-purpose soil amendment is the “complete multivitamin” for plants, adding nutrients, trace elements as well as humic acids that improve the soil structure and create good tilth. 

Crabapple LandscapExperts carefully make the best compost going, and we use it in the landscapes under our care! 



Photo Credit, Humus: University of Florida

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Benefits of Sharp Mower Blades: Research Update

Crabapple LandscapExperts know all about the value of keeping mower blades sharp! Dull mower blades:

 

● reduce the visual quality of turf because they shred the tips of the grass blades, producing a discolored cast
● increase disease susceptibility of the lawn, due to the creation of entry sites for pathogens at the tattered leaf tips
● cause growth to slow
● decrease water usage(!) Nebraska researchers Drs. Don Steinegger and Robert Shearman found that turf cut with a sharper blade actually used 33 percent more water than the turf mowed with a dull blade. They think this is due to the slower growth rate of the turf mowed with a dull blade. The researchers caution that using a dull blade isn’t the most pragmatic way to conserve water, noting that reduced visual quality, greater disease and slower growth more than offset the benefits of lower water use.
 ● most surprising, Steinegger and Shearman found that sharp mower blades cut fuel consumption by 22 percent. It makes sense that a dull blade would produce more resistance, but this study shows that the difference in fuel consumption is more than a theoretical consideration.
What this research means to Property Managers
By keeping their equipment in top condition, Crabapple LandscapExperts provide the best possible treatment for lawns and golf courses under their care. Mowing is accomplished efficiently, allowing us to concentrate on other aspects of the landscape, and overall cost savings. For more information, contact your Crabapple Rep. 

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Passive Solar: Planting for Shade and Cooling

Planting for Shade
The idea of using plants to shading a building in summer for coolness is called passive solar and can be both practical and beautiful. In summer, sunlight during the first and last few hours of the day is a major source of building heating, so planting trees and shrubs on the east and west sides is a great way to reduce this heat buildup. Trees  provide shade during all but the middle few hours of the day. A canopy of trees with a lower level of shrubs and bushes, or a wall or fence, to block low-angled rays is most effective. If deciduous trees are selected, they will drop their leaves in fall, thereby avoiding blocking sun during the winter.


Your Crabapple LandscapExperts will use winter and summer sunrise/sunset points to determine the appropriate length and placement of tree lines for your buildings. Best is to stay a little north of the winter sun points and choose deciduous trees for the southern end of the tree line, so that some early spring and late fall sun can reach the building. Evergreen trees are also very suitable for the eastern and western sides of a building.


From an aesthetic point of view, ask Crabapple LandscapExperts for their recommendations for nearby trees. Clearing the lower trunk of branches so that winter sunlight reaches window glazing underneath the branch canopy is an option. Your LandscapExperts can provide a solar site survey to determine what height the branches should be, since the clearance height depends on both winter sun angles and the distance of the tree from the building.


Trees very close to buildings will need to have lower branches removed to above eave height. Trees further away are cleared much higher. An understory of shrubs and hedges can provide privacy if required. [See related Blog on tree clearance of valuable buildings.]

Landscaping as a Natural Air Conditioner

In summer, air brought into buildings for ventilation and air conditioning is an important aspect of passive cooling. Landscape choices can cool outside air before it gets inside, increasing the cooling effect and decreasing the amount of energy needed to reach an optimum temperature – a kind of natural air conditioning.


Plants cool air temperatures in two ways:  
● Leaves cast shade, so air beneath them is cooler because it is not warmed directly by sunlight.
● Leaves transpire moisture– release water from pores on the leaf surface – which cools relatively dry air by evaporative cooling. The US Dept of Energy  states trees can reduce air temperatures around them by up to 9°F (5°C). Directly underneath trees the cooling is even better – up to a huge 25°F (14°C) cooler.


Solutions for Passive Solar Cooling with Plants:
● Crabapple will design ventilation pathways – the pathways that air travels into a building  –  to pass through a garden belt, a mix of trees and shrubs. If space is limited, vines grown vertically on trellis or on wires can produce a similar air conditioning effect.
● Take advantage of the air-conditioning effect of plants within courtyards. The courtyard can be linked to the building it serves in such a way that the cool air from the courtyard is sucked inside.
● Water features such as small ponds or fountains further enhance cooling through evaporation. This can be especially effective in the confined area of a courtyard or entrance patio.
● Finally, consider ground covers in passive solar temperature controls. Common paving materials – asphalt, stone, brick, cement or ceramic pavers, gravel – have significant thermal mass. They accumulate heat while the sun shines, and radiate that heat back at night. Crabapple LandscapExperts choose to keep pathways and drives shaded to limit the heating of the air surrounding them. 


Investigate the benefits of Passive Solar Cooling with your Crabapple LandscapExperts Rep. 

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

The Value of an Irrigation System Renovation


Crabapple LandscapExperts recommend updating irrigation systems for the greatest cost savings. A thorough irrigation system renovation will pay for itself within a few years.

Quick Tips:
● Efficient irrigation requires a quality sprinkler system design, excellent water management skills and regular system maintenance by your LandscapExperts.
● Tune ups and renovations of sprinkler systems greatly improve water coverage resulting in both better plant growth and water savings.
●Seasonal adjustment of irrigation controllers yields substantial water savings and better plant health.
● New technologies will likely result in improved water management. An irrigation audit can point to where water savings can be achieved.

Water sensors are a good upgrade, and shut off the equipment when enough water has been applied. While manual overrides can achieve the same result, rain sensors are another reliable method of eliminating redundancy or overwatering. Soil moisture sensors are still another option and will shut off the irrigation when the soil is moist and irrigation is no longer needed.

New Advancements in Technology
New technology has the potential to revolutionize landscape watering. Evapotranspiration (ET) controllers adjust run times by calculating the correct amount of water to apply. This takes the guesswork out of programming watering times. ET controllers use broadcast or online-transmitted data based on current weather station information(!). If current data is not available, normal (historical) ET information can be programmed into the controller for the calculations. Ask Crabapple LandscapExperts about these devices that will likely become more common over time. 

Horticultural tests for a new and efficient method of irrigating lawns and planted beds are underway at several agricultural experiment stations. One method uses subsurface (buried) drip irrigation lines, eliminating water loss through wind drift and evaporation waste. Your LandscapExperts are watching how this technology will develop. Ask about cutting edge technologies as you are installing new or renovating old sprinkler systems on the properties you manage, and save both water and money.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Hydrangeas; what are Mopheads and Lacecaps?

Popular, widely grown and easy to love, hydrangeas are native to Japan and Korea and do very well in the comparable climate of metro-Atlanta. They are acclaimed for their large, showy blossoms that provide great summer color for Atlanta landscapes. The genus name, Hydrangea, emphasizes their need for moist soils: note hydro- or “water” in the genus name.  Large, dark green leaves provide their species name, H. macrophylla  (macro = large; phylla = leaf) and perfectly set off blue, pink or white flower balls.  They are also known as Hortensias, florist hydrangeas or big-leaf hydrangeas.

Hydrangea flowers are either pink or blue depending on the acidity of the soil. With our acidic native soils of Atlanta, typically the flowers are blue, but pink can be achieved over an interval of a couple of years after adding lime to the soil to make it more neutral or alkaline. White Hydrangea flowers are also a delight and are not affected by soil pH.  

Mop Heads
Globe-shaped or pom-pom lowers provide a mass of color when viewed across the landscape and are fondly known as "mop heads". Close-up the round flowerheads are actually made up of many smaller 4-petaled flowers grouped in a ball. These flower clusters have mainly sterile flowers that dry well, preserve their color and are great for indoor flower arrangements.



Lace Caps
The other type of Hydrangea microphylla is more flattened looking and is known as the Lace Cap hydrangea because of its resemblance to a fancy “lace cap”.  Instead of a round ball of florets, they have fascinating pinwheel style, flat flowers with a row or two of sterile florets around the outside rim, and tiny, starry,  fertile florets inside.

Planting 
Crabapple LandscapExperts know that hHydrangeas do well in moist, humus-rich  soils with shady protection from afternoon sun. They will grow well in the landscape or in large containers, providing weeks of color throughout the summer. Ask the LandscapExperts to add some hydrangeas to your properties come planting season this fall.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Summer Vacation for Houseplants – A good idea or not so much?


Summertime provides the opportunity to move tender houseplants outdoors to warmer, sunnier, more humid conditions with better air circulation that more closely approximate the tropics where they evolved. Often they put on the most growth outside on your deck over the summer.

Although a “summer vacation” may seem like a treat for your plants, Crabapple LandscapExperts warn that they can suffer quite a bit of stress if abruptly moved from one environment to another, so follow a few guidelines for a successful ‘plant staycation’ and g-r-a-d-u-a-l-l-y move them to shady deck, balcony, patio or shady garden.

● Beware of moving plants directly from indoors to full sun because their leaves will get sunburned. That’s right; plants are people too! Scalded, white-surfaced leaves can result from too much sun too soon. Some succulents like Aloe actually get pink sunburned leaves. Situate your plants in a shady spot under an awning, in the shade of trees, or even underneath an outdoor table, and gradually (a little more light every other week) move them into conditions of  higher light. 

● If possible, time the move from AC when a series of rainy days/slightly cooler temperatures are predicted. 

● Better light and higher humidity cause plants to put on rapid growth. Plants photosynthesize and store up carbohydrates that will allow them to survive once they’re returned to relatively dark and arid living rooms. In particular, Phalaenopsis orchids that summer outside in the shade will reliably re-bloom next winter.

● Support good growth by adding nutrients that plants need. For a quick, one-time option, push three houseplant fertilizer spikes evenly spaced around the inside of the pot. Using liquid fertilizer diluted to ½ or ¼ strength each time you water are both options. With extra large planters, use 3 full sized tree-food or rose-food spikes, then stand back while they put on new leaves!

● Careful watering does a lot for good growth. The objective is to keep the pots evenly moist. For example, large palms, ficus trees or giant philodendrons growing in big planters can often benefit from a gallon+ of water a day. Smaller houseplants will need more water than they do indoors because of increased transpiration of water due to breezes and higher temperatures.  Rain showers now and then are an added plus.

● Be sure excess water is able to drain away through drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Tune in again next fall, and Crabapple LandscapExperts will discuss Best Practices for safely moving plants back indoors when cold temperatures threaten, including potting up and organic pest control if needed. 

Photo Credits: houseplantsguru.com, teatreewonders.com, smgrowers.com

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Preventing/Controlling Dollar Spot Fungus on Lawns

 Have you tried to pinch pennies by managing the lawns on your properties by yourself? Has this resulted in some challenges? The LandscapExperts at Crabapple can troubleshoot and solve any lawn maintenance problems in short order. Proper lawn management including timely watering, correct fertilization and core aeration when indicated will reduce the incidence of Dollar Spot problems.

Dollar Spot is a major turfgrass disease that arrives with hot weather and is caused by a fungus that invades lawns. Since metro-Atlanta has been experiencing July-like heat during late May and June, Dollar Spot is showing up earlier this year. At first, the disease is undetectable, causing yellow hourglass –shaped lesions on the leaves of grass. Next silver dollar-sized brown spots appear on stressed lawns, which quickly coalesce to form large, irregular dead spots in the turf. When grass is wet from early morning dew, a fine, white “cobweb” appearance due to fungus strands (mycelia) may be visible. The disease can be a problem on fine-leaf fescues, bermudagrass and Zoysia, as well as on bluegrass and bentgrass. Note that turfgrass under stress is more susceptible to Dollar Spot than well maintained turf.

Crabapple LandscapExperts Steps to Control Dollar Spot; proper lawn management is the key to prevention and control.
● Core aeration to prevent the buildup of thatch a core-type aerator. (see Blog on core aeration.)  This device pulls cylindrical plugs from thatch and soil, which allows penetration of water, air and nutrients into the soil, increasing root depth of the turf. Shallow, poorly developed roots that are susceptible to drought stress result from heavy thatch layers because water, air and nutrients cannot penetrate to the underlying soil and grass roots, resulting in and resulting overwatering that promotes Dollar Spot.
● Sanitation prevents the spread of the fungus. Wheels on lawnmowers, maintenance equipment and LandscapExperts' shoes are cleaned to help eliminate transmission of the disease.
● Good nitrogen fertility. Stressed lawns are more susceptible to Dollar Spot, so Crabapple fertilizes warm season grasses during the summer growth months to promote optimum nitrogen levels. Fertilization is carefully controlled to preclude excess salt levels.
● Best horticultural practices provide attention to mowing frequency and height for best growth of lawns. Additionally, in the instance of a fungal breakout grass clippings are caught and removed. 
● Timing of Watering is important because fungus spores need about 12 hours to germinate on wet leaves.
+Very early morning watering (before sunrise) is best as it washes dew and leaf sap from the leaf surfaces and helps reduce the incidence and spread of Dollar Spot. After sunrise, a no-watering interval (about an hour) is observed to allow lawns to dry off.
+Daytime watering is sometimes practiced but loss of irrigation water may occur through evaporation at midday.
+Watering is discontinued in the late afternoon to allow the leaves of grass time to dry before nightfall, since disease may become more severe if a wet period is extended during the early evening. We do not recommend watering at night.
● Insect control and elimination of infestations of white grubs, billbug grubs and root-eating insects that cause lawn symptoms that resemble drought stress. Organic controls specific to insects are used as the first line of defense. Pesticide effectiveness in killing grubs is improved by removal of any thatch layer.
● Long periods of high humidity can promote Dollar Spot. Mother Nature is in control of this factor.
● Fungicides are used only as a last resort, because some forms of the Dollar Spot fungi are resistant to fungicides with varying degrees of tolerance to commonly used brands. Crabapple LandscapExperts specifically select and rotate fungicides targeted to individual applications. Fungicides are expensive, plus beneficial earthworms and helpful soil bacteria can be adversely affected by fungicide applications.

In conclusion, call Crabapple LandscapExperts to maintain beautiful lawns on your properties, or if you notice Dollar Spot in any areas.  

Resources: http://www.caes.uga.edu/publications/pubDetail.cfm?pk_id=7149#DollarSpot and Colorado State University Extension C. E. Swift; photos courtesy of Penn State University, UGA Urban Agriculture